Every week in Genius Recipes—often with your help!—Food52 Founding Editor and lifelong Genius-hunter Kristen Miglore is unearthing recipes that will change the way you cook.
This cake will stun you—with its sunshiny looks, the burst of citrus in every swirl and crumb, but, maybe most of all, for what it doesn’t ask of you.
There are, of course, allsortsofways to make a great cake, but when I see “softened butter,” I’m conditioned to expect a certain rhythm. I’ll probably cream that butter with sugar until it pales and swells, I’ll blop eggs in one by one, mixing and scraping. I’ll whisk a few powders, adding them judiciously, in intervals with measured pours of liquids.
I haven’t, until now, expected this: Place all the ingredients for the cake together in a large bowl and beat.
All together now.Photo by Julia Gartland. Food Stylist: Anna Billingskog. Prop Stylist: Alya Hameedi.
It’s not that there’s anything particularly onerous about this creaming process. But isn’t it nice, mind-opening even, to realize we don’t always have to do it?
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Top Comment:
“Terrific recipe! Straight-forward and easy to follow - I'm already thinking about making a lemon version of this. Made a few minor changes, none of which changed the recipe or the outcome. I baked this in two 6-inch by 3-inch deep pans, which required the same volume of batter (a bit longer bake time and I covered pans with foil the last third or so of the bake time to prevent browning). Reduced frosting by one-third to account for smaller surface area. And I candied the orange and lemon peel strips (I did this step first to allow the strips to cool and dry). I saved it to my favorites so I can easily find it the next time - there will be a next time.”
For this revelatory cake, we have author, broadcaster, and human rights campaigner Yasmin Khan and her most recent cookbook Ripe Figs: Recipes and Stories from Turkey, Greece, and Cyprus to thank. In her work, Yasmin immerses herself in regions commonly associated with political conflict to share gripping stories of human connection; back home in London, she creates recipes based on the dishes she’s encountered during her travels.
In the case of this citrus cake, Yasmin first tasted it at the café at the Home for Co-operation. The organization is located in Nicosia, Cyprus’ divided capital city, within the Green Line that separates the Turkish north and the Greek south of the island.
Sunshine and yogurt.Photo by Julia Gartland. Food Stylist: Anna Billingskog. Prop Stylist: Alya Hameedi.
“I loved the flavor so much that I immediately went to the counter and asked what was in it,” Yasmin writes in Ripe Figs. “They let me in on the secret of plain yogurt in the batter, which gives the cake a lovely soft crumb.”
The other key to this recipe is, essentially, mindfulness. “This is a really straightforward recipe—you just put everything in one bowl and mix it, but it is quite crucial to make sure that you’re not overmixing it,” Yasmin told me. “As soon as those streaks of flour are gone, that’s it.”
Both the rich yogurt and the just-enough mixing help buffer against the development of extra cake-building (but, in excess, cake-toughening) gluten.
In fact, following Yasmin’s recipe offers a window into why the creaming process has had such longevity: Adding the flour at the end helps us get that far ahead of the gluten.
Following Yasmin’s recipe also shows us we’ll be just fine either way.
cup (225 grams) softened unsalted butter, plus more for the pans
1 3/4
cups (225 grams) all-purpose flour
1
cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
4
extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
3 1/2
teaspoons baking powder
3/4
teaspoon salt
1
teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4
cup (55 grams) full-fat plain yogurt
2
tablespoons finely grated unwaxed orange zest
2
tablespoons orange juice
1
cup (225 grams) softened unsalted butter, plus more for the pans
1 3/4
cups (225 grams) all-purpose flour
1
cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
4
extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
3 1/2
teaspoons baking powder
3/4
teaspoon salt
1
teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4
cup (55 grams) full-fat plain yogurt
2
tablespoons finely grated unwaxed orange zest
2
tablespoons orange juice
For the frosting
2/3
cup (80 grams) confectioners’ sugar
12
ounces (350 grams) full-fat cream cheese
1/4
cup (55 grams) full-fat plain yogurt
1
tablespoon orange juice
2
tablespoons lemon juice
Orange and unwaxed lemon, to zest for garnish
2/3
cup (80 grams) confectioners’ sugar
12
ounces (350 grams) full-fat cream cheese
1/4
cup (55 grams) full-fat plain yogurt
1
tablespoon orange juice
2
tablespoons lemon juice
Orange and unwaxed lemon, to zest for garnish
Got a Genius recipe to share—from a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Please send it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at genius@food52.com. Thank you to Food52 Food Editor Emma Laperruque for sharing this one!
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From our new podcast network, The Genius Recipe Tapes is lifelong Genius hunter Kristen Miglore’s 10-year-strong column in audio form, featuring all the uncut gems from the weekly column and video series. Subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts so you don’t miss out.
I'm an ex-economist, lifelong-Californian who moved to New York to work in food media in 2007, before returning to the land of Dutch Crunch bread and tri-tip barbecues in 2020. Dodgy career choices aside, I can't help but apply the rational tendencies of my former life to things like: recipe tweaking, digging up obscure facts about pizza, and deciding how many pastries to put in my purse for "later."
1. Never make a cake for the first time when serving for an Easter dinner 2. Read the comments before baking so you can trust and follow your baking instincts 3. Always - ALWAYS - cream your butter with the sugar no matter what they tell you. I really wanted to love this cake but knew the moment I put everything together and mixed it, only to find major lumps in my batter, that something was amuck. Tried to watch the video again before mixing but it was no longer available:( I left my butter out overnight along with my eggs but the batter still didn't blend well, and then I did the unthinkable, over beat the batter. The cake was extremely dense and barely rose. Next Easter I will stick with my basic pound cake recipe and make my traditional lamb cake instead....lol.
I made this using Greek yogurt, candied the orange and lemon zest per Charles, and baked two layers using a 7" springform pan. The pan unfortunately leaked butter when removed from the oven. This is a somewhat dense cake with a lovely lightweight topping.
Looks like my original comment didn't post - apologies if this is a duplicate. Terrific recipe! Straight-forward and easy to follow - I'm already thinking about making a lemon version of this. Made a few minor changes, none of which changed the recipe or the outcome. I baked this in two 6-inch by 3-inch deep pans, which required the same volume of batter (a bit longer bake time and I covered pans with foil the last third or so of the bake time to prevent browning). Reduced frosting by one-third to account for smaller surface area. And I candied the orange and lemon peel strips (I did this step first to allow the strips to cool and dry). I saved it to my favorites so I can easily find it the next time - there will be a next time.
King Arthur has a guide to baking Bundt cakes, which touches on moving cakes from regular pans to Bundt. https://www.kingarthurbaking.com/learn/guides/bundt-cake
I'm curious to know what a cake made with the same ingredients but in the "traditional" way (creaming butter/sugar, adding eggs, then the flour) would be like in comparison. I'd post the results if I ever get the chance to try it both ways, but I don't see a way to include pictures.
Thank you for sharing this recipe. Looking forward to trying it. In the event the cake won't be eaten in one sitting, what is the best way to store it?
This recipe looks delicious and I will definitely bake it for my citrus loving brother for his birthday. Can it be used to make a Bundt cake? I baked your whole orange cake recipe a while back. How do the two cakes compare?
Don't zest in the manner depicted in the video. Instead, zest citrus over a bowl with other ingredients being used: otherwise, you lose and waste a great deal of the oil in the zest.
I had to look back at the video after seeing this. What's wrong with how she zested? She used the Microplane so that the zest accumulated on top, then deposited the accumulated zest into the empty mixing bowl, to which she then added the eggs. I don't see how oil would be wasted.
What you don't see is the small droplets of oil that drop over the board and countertop by doing it over them instead of over, say, closely over the bowl of dry ingredients. Wasted.
Hi Kristen, I can't wait to try this cake, looks delicious. I have made a few cakes recently with the dump it and bake it technique. It's kind of making me want to see what would happen if I tried it with some of my other favorite cake recipes that call for more complicated techniques. What do you think? Thanks.
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